The route through the southwest gutter covers a little over 200 meters of climbing in about five pitches. A not difficult climb, but with an important approach, poor rock quality and difficult to protect!
From Puerto Varas we must go along the “Interlagos” route to the Cardenal Samoré border crossing. Place where you have to register the activity and leave the identity documentation of the participants in the international police. About 20 kilometers more towards Argentina is where we begin the trek to the base camp.
At this stage, we must carry in our backpacks everything necessary for the following days. The trek runs through Lenga and Ñirre forests, the crossing of a river, volcanic ash and border milestones. Approximately seven kilometers and four to five hours will be needed to reach the base camp, in the plains near the mountain.
The day of the climb will start relatively early. In the first part, we will need about an hour to get close to the beginning of the route, from there an easy climb of about fifty meters will leave us in the gutter and a complete first view of the route. From here, with more vertical feeling than the actual slope has (reach max. 70 -80°), we will reach the edge that through a traverse will take us to the last climb between blocks and loose rock. The route in summer conditions has a UIAA classification of V grade, with a climb of 5.7 in Yosemite climbing. In winter the route becomes completely “alpine”. The approach will be completely covered in snow, so it must be done on ski touring or with snowshoes, and for the route it will be necessary to use ice axes and crampons (difficulty WI3 to Wi4).
For this program, it is necessary to have experience and knowledge of climbing and rappelling. It is not necessary to have a high rock climbing grade, nor to have experience in traditional climbing, but it is important to master the technique of rappelling and belaying. In addition to the physical capacity for three days in the mountains!