Home »Programs »Ski Touring and Climbing »Traditional climbing to Cerro Pantojo
Traditional climbing to Cerro Pantojo

Traditional climbing to Cerro Pantojo

A tower of lava rising among volcanoes and Andean forests offers an elegant classic climb in the mountains of southern Chile.

from
CLP$ 700.000
per person
Puyehue
3 days
Duration
1–6 pax
Group
1 guide per 2 clients on multi-pitch climbing (maximum NCh3018 §6.1.2)
Guide ratio
Start / End
Puerto Varas
Season
Jan – Dec
Difficulty
Max. altitude
2,027 m
Distance
± 7 km (trek to base camp)
Elevation gain
± 700 m trek to base camp + ± 200 m of climbing
The southwest gully route covers a little over 200 meters of climbing in about five pitches. A climb of low technical difficulty, but with a significant approach, poor rock quality and hard to protect. From Puerto Varas we head along the inter-lakes route towards the Cardenal Samoré border pass, where the activity must be registered and participants' identity documents left with the international police. Some 20 kilometers further towards Argentina the trek to base camp begins. On this stage we carry in our packs everything needed for the following days. The trek runs through lenga and ñirre forest, a river crossing, volcanic ash and the border markers. Roughly seven kilometers and four to five hours are needed to reach base camp, on the plains near the mountain. Climbing day starts relatively early. For the first part we need about an hour to reach the foot of the route; from there, an easy scramble of some fifty meters brings us to the gully and a first full view of the route, with the odd vertical move but relatively low-angled (70–80°) up to the arête, which via a traverse leads to the final climb among blocks and loose rock. In summer conditions the route is graded UIAA V, with a difficulty of 5.7 on the Yosemite scale. In winter it becomes fully "alpine": the approach is entirely snow-covered, so it is done on randonnée skis or snowshoes, and the route requires ice axes and crampons (difficulty WI3 to WI4). This program requires experience and knowledge of climbing and rappelling. A high rock-climbing grade is not required, nor previous experience in traditional climbing, but it is important to master rappelling and belaying technique, as well as having the fitness for three days in the mountains.
  • Weather conditions. The weather on southern Chile's volcanoes is strongly influenced by the Pacific Ocean and the Andean relief. Frontal systems bring frequent precipitation for much of the year and, with altitude, wind, cloud cover and the likelihood of snow increase, favoring rapid changes in mountain conditions.
  • Mountain guide (ES/EN), member of ANGM Chile
  • Technical equipment: helmet, harness, crampons, ice axe, poles, guide's climbing gear
  • Camping equipment: tents, cooking gear
  • Meals at camp (dinners and breakfasts)
  • Transport from/to Puerto Varas
  • Supplementary accident insurance
Not included: Tips, additional services or any item not specified in the itinerary · Optional entrances, activities or visits not included in the program · Clothing and equipment that is the participant's responsibility · Personal life, travel-assistance, medical, evacuation or repatriation insurance · Pack animals, porters or other logistical support unless expressly stated · Personal expenses in town · Meals and drinks not listed or additional to the set menu · Alcoholic beverages · Costs arising from voluntary changes to the itinerary · Anything not expressly stated as included
Day 1: 07 am
Transportation from Puerto Varas to Cardenal Samoré border crossing.
Day 1: 11 am
Trekking to base camp (4-5 hours).
Day 1: 4 pm
Base camp.
Day 2:
Climbing of the route "gutter southwest" (5 lengths, +-200m, difficulty in summer; 5.7 YDS, V UIAA | difficulty in winter: M3 or M4, 80°).
Day 3: 9 am
Trekking back to the beginning of the trail.
Day 3:
Trekking back to the beginning of the trail.
Day 4: 4 pm
End of service.
Cancellation policy
Cancel up to 30 days before and receive the refund according to the program's conditions.
Payment methods
Book by paying only the reservation fee by bank card or transfer; the balance is paid before the program starts.

Participation requirements

To take part you need a level of fitness in keeping with the program's demands and a willingness to follow the guide's instructions in the field. No prior technical experience is required unless the program states otherwise. If you have any health condition, tell us when booking so we can advise you; if in doubt, consult your doctor.

Safety and mountain conditions

This is a mountain activity, subject to the conditions of the environment. The guide in charge continuously assesses the weather, the terrain and the group, and decides to adjust the route, the pace or to suspend the activity when safety requires it. Coming back safely always comes before reaching the objective.

Changes due to weather conditions

The mountain decides whether the activity can take place. A reliable forecast is available a few days beforehand, so we are flexible with advance bookings: if conditions do not allow a safe departure, we look for an alternative date or refund your deposit. If we start the program by mutual agreement and conditions prevent reaching the objective, the activity is considered completed.

Equipment the participant brings

The program includes the necessary technical equipment; you bring your mountain clothing, suitable footwear and personal items (backpack, water, snack, sun protection). The exact detail is in the program checklist, and if you are missing anything we have rental gear: let us know when booking.

Suggested clothing

Dress in layers for changeable mountain weather: a thermal base layer, an insulating layer and a windproof, waterproof outer layer, plus a hat, gloves and suitable socks. Footwear must be suited to the program's terrain. The full detail is in the checklist.

Good to know
Frequently asked questions

The weather conditions are essential for a safe and enjoyable trip. However, an accurate and somewhat reliable weather forecast can only be had about five (5) days before the planned date for the trip, so we try to be as flexible as possible with reservations made in advance: To be able to book a date we only require the payment of the reservation fee, and once we have a reliable forecast we re-confirm the date and coordinate the payment of the difference. But if it is not possible to start the ascent because we foresee that there will be poor visibility in the glacial area (precipitation or clouds that reduce visibility to only a few meters) we will look for an alternative date or the refund of the booking fee. However, if by mutual agreement we decide to start the program (that is, to go out to pick you up or to meet at the lodge), either because the forecast looks good, acceptable, or unclear, and the conditions do not allow us to reach the summit or meet the proposed objectives, there is no refund of the payment!

Yes! The minimum to perform the program is one (1) person, so there is no problem in doing the program just for you. But keep in mind that it is a shared service, so if there is another person interested in the program and the date they could share the service. But don't worry we'll let you know if that happens!

Yes, we have available trekking poles, mountain boots, gloves, backpacks, sunglasses for rent. So if you need something do not forget to let us know in the booking process.

While most of our programs are small groups and it's almost always just the group you've booked together, our regular programs are shared services. So if you would like to book a private program in advance, it will be priced accordingly to the capacity of the clients that the guide or guides could have on that trip. Write to us to see it in detail!

The program includes the transportation from/to Puerto Varas, Ensenada, Petrohue, Puerto Octay or Cascadas. Picking or dropping from Osorno, Puerto Montt, Puerto Montt/Osorno airport, Llanquihue or Frutillar have an extra cost of $15.000 CLP per way. Other places are available upon request. If you want to get to the meeting point on your own, let us know and we will coordinate to meet you! There are some programs that include transportation from other cities, if indicated in the description, so it will be!

The program includes the technical equipment: crampons, helmet, harness, ice axe. So they basically only require their mountain boots, clothes, and accessories (glasses, backpack, gloves). Anyway you can see the checklist to verify that you have what you need and / or let us know if you need something! Some programs may also include other items (such as sleeping bags or trekking poles), so if it is indicated in the program it will be available in the program.

It is the ascent of a mountain or volcano by a group accompanied by a (or several) Mountain Guides! We do our best to customize our programs to your needs, but please note that regular programs are shared services. We will always let you know in advance when more people join the same trip! If you will like to book in advance a private guide, it will need to be priced accordingly at the capacity of clients that your guide could have on this trip.

Because most of our trips are small groups, it will be just you or a couple of other people, we rent the car from the guide (or our family) to develop the program: A normal car, clean, in good condition and of course with all the required permits. For bigger groups, we hire a driver with a Mercedes Benz Sprinter Van or similar.

Each program closes its online bookings some days before the start date: from 2 days for the 1–2 day ascents and treks, and more days for longer programs (up to several weeks for the expeditions). This margin lets us coordinate in time the logistics external to HAE —transport, refuges, permits, muleteers and other third-party services— essential to run the program safely. If you're interested in a date closer to the cutoff, write to us and we'll assess feasibility.

Yes. Booking in advance is the best way to secure our availability for your program. Mountain conditions cannot be predicted weeks or months ahead. That's why, as the activity approaches, we continuously monitor the forecast and keep you informed in good time about how conditions are developing. If everything is favorable, we confirm the departure; if conditions are not suitable, we'll assess the available options with you — whether rescheduling the activity for another date, running an alternative program, or cancelling the booking in accordance with our policies.

You may also like